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How To/Pro-Tips

Elk Ambushes

Trails, crossings, funnels and bottle-necks. These are all important to the whitetail hunter's "read" of his hunting territory. They should be part of the elk hunter's scouting and hunting strategies as well. Deer and elk both have to walk somewhere. Given a choice that doesn't put them in danger, they'll walk the easiest route possible. Of course in elk country "easy" is a relative term. However, by its sheer ruggedness, elk habitat tends to bottle-neck and funnel travel lanes to an even greater extent than in most deer habitat. You can find some really well-beaten elk trails simply because they offer the only reasonable way to get from point A to point B. Smaller trails into and around the most rugged cover in the area are likely an old bull's secret avenues to a favorite hideout. Elk sign is generally similar to deer sign and laid out in similar patterns. However, it is usually on a larger scale and over a wider swath of countryside.

Of Bulls And Gobblers

The calling strategies for bull elk and gobblers are very similar. A strident bugle call can cause sub-dominant bulls to fade away and cause a bull with cows to avoid competition. Too much gobbling on a call does the same thing to turkeys. Both bulls and gobblers seem to catch on when they hear repeated calling from the same spot. Hold back on the call at log landings, along roads or on trails well-traveled by other hunters. Go out into the woods a bit so your calling is coming from a new and more natural area. Both bulls and gobblers "go silent" when they've been exposed to too much calling. That doesn't mean they won't come in for a look, but they will do so quietly. It takes a lot of patience to wait out a hard-hunted bull in a high odds area. Use subdued cow calls and keep your eyes open.

Smokepoll Bulls

Elk hunting with muzzleloaders is a big deal. As a halfway point between bowhunting and the use of modern centerfire rifles, many muzzleloading elk seasons are set between archery and gun hunts. In many areas, muzzleloading hunters catch the tail end of the bugling and calling period. In response, muzzleloaders have come a long way fast. Though many still prefer the traditional side-hammer guns resembling those of the 19th century pioneers, others have gone more modern. The new "in-line" muzzleloaders look very much like a modern bolt-action rifle. The in-line advantages include faster and more positive straight-line ignition, better weatherproofing in the critical cap and nipple area and better, crisper triggers. Their faster rifling twist offers better accuracy with conical and sabot-type bullets. All in all, a newcomer to muzzleloading will be able to shoot an in-line gun more accurately with less practice.

States have varying regulations defining what is legal and allowable for muzzleloader/primitive weapons elk hunting. Check the regulations where you are going.

Beating The Crowd

Elk hunting's popularity often means crowded hunting -- even for bowhunters. However, there are some ways to beat the crowds. Play the Lottery -- Many elk-hunting states have set aside areas devoted to quality elk hunting. Some of these are archery or primitive weapons only and others merely have a quota for all hunters. Usually, hunting opportunity is decided by lottery type drawings. By applying for several quota-draw hunts, you have a good chance at some good, uncrowded elk hunting. Out-Walk 'Em -- Many designated wilderness areas offer large chunks of backcountry for those tough enough to get there. There is no guarantee you'll beat out everyone to the way back spots, but it does cut down the crowd. Pay for Privacy -- Easier elk hunting with some degree of exclusivity is easily available on private lands for those willing to pay the going rate. Paying a rancher a trespass fee, if his ranch holds good elk hunting, can be a bargain in the long run.

Be A Dweeb

As with gobbling back to a turkey, bugling to a bull elk can cause different reactions. Of course we all hope that it will bring him raging in to confront his challenger. But that is not always the case. If you come on too strong, you'll likely drive away sub-dominant or "satellite" bulls. If the boss bull hears what he perceives as a strong challenger, he's prone to take his cows away rather than take a loss. A weak and halting bugle sounds like a yearling bull trying to show off. Grown bulls that show grudging respect toward each other don't cotton to inferior interlopers. There's something about the male hierarchy of bull elk society (this works with gobblers too) that just can't stand a dweeb trying to run with the big boys. Back up your wimpy bugle with some grunts (not too guttural) and maybe some mews and chirps. If the local bulls think the dweeb is getting some action it really drives them crazy.

 

How to Use a Bow Stringer

One of the first things you need to know when stringing a Recurve bow is that the large

loop of the string goes on the top limb, while the small loop goes on the bottom limb.

This order is important because the small loop will generally stay in position on the

lower limb while stringing and unstringing the bow. And, the upper loop, or large loop,

will be traveling up and down the limb when stringing and unstringing the bow. Since

the limb tip is smaller than the width of the limb below the tip, the loop needs to be a bit

larger.

The position of the bowstring is very important. The strings bottom loop must fit

securely in the groove in the bottom limb. Before releasing pressure on the limbs, make

sure that both string loops are still in the grooves on the limbs. Stringing the bow can be

dangerous if not done properly.

The cord stringer method is the safest and most commonly used method.

The cord stringer comes as a long cord with leather pouches at both ends of the string.

These pouches fit over each end of the limb.

To use the cord stringer, first hold the bow with the front face of the bow facing

downward.

Grip the center of the riser with the hand that has the most control and strength.

With the bow facing down, put the larger pouch over the tip of the lower or bottom limb.

Then put the smallest pouch over the tip of the upper limb.

Make sure that both pouches are fitted securely over the tips.

The stringer cord should now be hanging below the bow.

Step on the stringer cord using the same side as the hand used to hold the bow.

Make sure the cord is in the middle or "ball” of your foot.

Pull upon the riser just enough to make the string taut, making sure that the lower end

of the string is still securely sitting in the grooves on the lower limb.

While still pulling up slowly on the riser, guide the string into the notches of the upper

limb.

Watch that your fingers stay to the sides of the limb, making sure not to place them

between the bow string and the face of the bow.

To unstring a recurve bow, just reverse any of these processes.

When stringing the bow, there are a few important things to remember. First, always

make sure that the string is seated properly in the grooves of the upper and lower limb

before releasing pressure. Also, always remember that the archers’ safety is the most

important.

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