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How To/Pro-Tips

Diet and Your Dog

A hunting dog is an athlete, particularly a hard-working duck dog. Like most athletes, working dogs work up large appetites. During the waterfowl season when your retriever is burning up calories swimming in cold water and staying warm the rest of the time, high-energy food is best. However, after the season is over and particularly during the warm months, putting your retriever on a diet is a good idea.
If you feed high-protein, high-performance dog food, you can simply cut back the amount fed. Another approach is to change to a different feed with lower protein and fat content. Switch dog foods gradually by mixing, until the dog gets used to the new food.
The metabolism of individual dogs varies and they may require different amounts of food. For a clue to condition, look at the dog's flanks. A healthy dog at its proper weight should show the last two ribs. If more show, feed more. If you can't see those two ribs, cut back.

Getting the Range

Basically a bow is a short-range weapon. Compared to bullets and slugs, arrows from even the most modern, high-speed bows fall fast and fall short.

The steeply gaining curve of arrow drop limits the archer's maximum effective range. It also requires precise range estimation and aiming calculation at various points within the bow's effective range. For instance, the aiming points on a 20-yard buck and on a 35-yard buck are very different sight pictures.

With steep, angling shots from treestands, another geometric factor comes into play. With a steep-angle shot, the straight-line diagonal distance to the target doesn't matter. The projectile (bullet or arrow) is affected only by the actual horizontal distance. Thus a buck that is 20 yards away from and 45 degrees below your stand is only 14 actual horizontal yards away and that's how you should hold.

Understanding angles and a good rangefinder, coupled with a bow having multiple range pins and pre-sighted from an elevated position, will increase your stand-shooting percentage.

Good Sense About Scent

The less of your scent you leave in your hunting area, the better the odds for your success. This goes for both scouting and hunting.

Take pains to keep yourself and the area as scent-free as possible. Regular bathing helps. The new "no-scent" soaps help even more. Wash your hunting clothes in no-scent soap and put them in air-tight bags, away from smokers, household odors, campfire smoke and such. Putting aromatic but natural vegetation such as pine or cedar in the bag doesn't hurt a thing.

Wear rubber or rubber-bottom boots in the woods and try not to walk on the deer trails. Avoid touching or brushing up against brush, particularly along trails. Everything you touch will hold your scent for a while.

Take your climbing stand or seat cushion out of the woods with you. These items absorb a lot of human scent. Leaving them in the woods leaves your scent there too, preventing your hunting area from "resting" even when you are not hunting.

Monsters of the Midday

The first hour of dawn and the last hour of dusk are magical and highly productive deer hunting times. The whitetail deer prefers the low-light periods surrounding sunrise and sunset. However, under some conditions, hunting in the middle of the day or all day long can be very effective.
Deer move or feed several times over a 24-hour period. Under a full moon, deer are active during the middle of the night. This may stimulate a corresponding period of movement during the following day. Essentially the same thing occurs when heavy hunting pressure forces much nocturnal activity. Also, many experienced hunters suspect that wary bucks pattern hunter movement patterns and are well aware that most hunters are loafing around camp by 9 or 10 a.m.

Severely cold weather also seems to get bucks off to a late start with more midday activity. Likewise, cloudy and rainy days, which keep the light turned down all day, promote daytime feeding and movement activity.

Hunt and Fish with Your Kids

When my kids were very young, I asked my dad how to get them to enjoy the outdoors. His answer was simple, "Take them but don't push them and don't bore them."

With young kids, set aside some trips where their fun is more important than your success. Be patient and make the trips fun and interesting. All kids like trucking on muddy roads and riding in boats but they're naturally impatient when things slow down. When hunting or fishing, watch the child for signs of boredom -- it's not hard to spot. Break up the trip by changing locations or doing something else for awhile. When it's cold don't keep them out for too long.

Soon they'll want to stay longer and longer. Enthusiasm and real skill will grow and reinforce their enjoyment of hunting and fishing. At that point make them take The Oath: "When you are grown, and I'm older than dirt, you've got to take me along on your hunting and fishing trips."

 

How to Use a Bow Stringer

One of the first things you need to know when stringing a Recurve bow is that the large

loop of the string goes on the top limb, while the small loop goes on the bottom limb.

This order is important because the small loop will generally stay in position on the

lower limb while stringing and unstringing the bow. And, the upper loop, or large loop,

will be traveling up and down the limb when stringing and unstringing the bow. Since

the limb tip is smaller than the width of the limb below the tip, the loop needs to be a bit

larger.

The position of the bowstring is very important. The strings bottom loop must fit

securely in the groove in the bottom limb. Before releasing pressure on the limbs, make

sure that both string loops are still in the grooves on the limbs. Stringing the bow can be

dangerous if not done properly.

The cord stringer method is the safest and most commonly used method.

The cord stringer comes as a long cord with leather pouches at both ends of the string.

These pouches fit over each end of the limb.

To use the cord stringer, first hold the bow with the front face of the bow facing

downward.

Grip the center of the riser with the hand that has the most control and strength.

With the bow facing down, put the larger pouch over the tip of the lower or bottom limb.

Then put the smallest pouch over the tip of the upper limb.

Make sure that both pouches are fitted securely over the tips.

The stringer cord should now be hanging below the bow.

Step on the stringer cord using the same side as the hand used to hold the bow.

Make sure the cord is in the middle or "ball” of your foot.

Pull upon the riser just enough to make the string taut, making sure that the lower end

of the string is still securely sitting in the grooves on the lower limb.

While still pulling up slowly on the riser, guide the string into the notches of the upper

limb.

Watch that your fingers stay to the sides of the limb, making sure not to place them

between the bow string and the face of the bow.

To unstring a recurve bow, just reverse any of these processes.

When stringing the bow, there are a few important things to remember. First, always

make sure that the string is seated properly in the grooves of the upper and lower limb

before releasing pressure. Also, always remember that the archers’ safety is the most

important.

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