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How To/Pro-Tips

A New Duck Gun

Most hunters have an old favorite shotgun that reflects years of wonderful waterfowling memories. However, we also are intrigued by the new models as well.
One of the best things that has happened to waterfowling shotguns is the application of a protective camouflage finish. Most major shotgun manufacturers offer waterfowl-worthy shotguns in camo.
Besides the obvious advantage of a camouflaged gun, the new finishes are very protective. The finishes are applied by an immersion process and, in effect, coat the gun, lock, stock and barrel, with a camo pattern. This coating is considerably thicker and more protective than a coat of paint. It is permanent and will not peel or fade. It also provides a non-slip surface for a better grip on the gun.
For hunters will an all-around gun that don't want it camouflaged all the time, camo tape or the various camo covers that can be slipped and zipped on without impairing the gun's function are the answer. These also provide excellent protection for your shotgun.

Fools Rush In

My No. 1 rule for taking a trophy buck is to not allow the trophy buck to know I'm intent on taking him. This requires extreme caution and it also requires not hunting in what others might consider to be the most promising spots.
I start by studying the buck's habits from a distance and from sign. I try to learn as much as I can about his pattern.
The last thing I want is to encounter the buck before I'm ready for him. Avoiding his core area or sanctuary is a top priority. Staying well out of his primary scraping or breeding area is also important. A buck is very sensitive to such intrusions.
I start off trying to ambush him along his trails but even then I don't sit right over the trail but rather off to the side. Even if the buck gets wind of you near trails, he will not be as much alarmed as he would be in his breeding and core area.

Before You Practice

Practice with your bow early and often. However, before serious practice, get your outfit in shape. Check out everything that might have put your bow out of tune in the off-season.
With older bows check the draw weight. As they age, bows with laminated limbs gradually lose power. This happens so slowly that it's barely noticeable, but it can be corrected. It's a problem only if you remain unaware of it and fail to compensate.
Check the bowstring for both stretching and wear. A few twists will correct a mildly stretched string, but if there's fraying, it's time to replace the string. I like to start a new season with a new string and a backup in my kit. Check for loose nocking points and string wear under the nocking points. This is one of the places where string wear can slip up on you.
Check your wheels and axles for proper alignment and smooth performance. Lubricate them before they start to squeak and groan.

Get The Point?

There are a huge variety of good hunting broadheads out there, but none of them will work any better than the thought you put into their selection and use. Balance is the key. What you are trying to accomplish is an "agreement" between your bow, arrow shaft and hunting point.

The starting place is a compatibility chart at your bow shop that matches bow strength and arrow spine. This is pretty straightforward but when you get to head type and weight, you have choices, possibly many. Pick two or three different head types and weights that are somewhat different. One of them will likely shoot better than the others.

Now go back and pick a couple more that are only slightly different than the one that performed best. One of these may outperform the other two. This way you let your bow tell you which head it likes.

As long as you stay with the same setup, you won't have to go through this process again.

Find the Funnels

Deer trails are a good bet all during the hunting season and one of the best trail types is the so-called "funnel." This is where habitat or terrain narrows a deer's movement options to a relatively small area.

One type of funnel is found in farm and woodlot country where a strip of cover crosses open areas. Deer, and particularly bucks, are going to stick to cover as long as they've got it. The strip may only be a thin row of trees or brush but if that's all that is available, you can be sure the deer will use it to their best advantage.

The other funnel occurs where difficult terrain makes a certain path the easiest or most convenient. "Gaps" in ridges or mountainous country can be real hotspots because they offer the easiest route to the other side of the hill. However, under heavy hunting pressure, deer choose safe over easy and, if cover allows, may start using more difficult trails.

 

How to Use a Bow Stringer

One of the first things you need to know when stringing a Recurve bow is that the large

loop of the string goes on the top limb, while the small loop goes on the bottom limb.

This order is important because the small loop will generally stay in position on the

lower limb while stringing and unstringing the bow. And, the upper loop, or large loop,

will be traveling up and down the limb when stringing and unstringing the bow. Since

the limb tip is smaller than the width of the limb below the tip, the loop needs to be a bit

larger.

The position of the bowstring is very important. The strings bottom loop must fit

securely in the groove in the bottom limb. Before releasing pressure on the limbs, make

sure that both string loops are still in the grooves on the limbs. Stringing the bow can be

dangerous if not done properly.

The cord stringer method is the safest and most commonly used method.

The cord stringer comes as a long cord with leather pouches at both ends of the string.

These pouches fit over each end of the limb.

To use the cord stringer, first hold the bow with the front face of the bow facing

downward.

Grip the center of the riser with the hand that has the most control and strength.

With the bow facing down, put the larger pouch over the tip of the lower or bottom limb.

Then put the smallest pouch over the tip of the upper limb.

Make sure that both pouches are fitted securely over the tips.

The stringer cord should now be hanging below the bow.

Step on the stringer cord using the same side as the hand used to hold the bow.

Make sure the cord is in the middle or "ball” of your foot.

Pull upon the riser just enough to make the string taut, making sure that the lower end

of the string is still securely sitting in the grooves on the lower limb.

While still pulling up slowly on the riser, guide the string into the notches of the upper

limb.

Watch that your fingers stay to the sides of the limb, making sure not to place them

between the bow string and the face of the bow.

To unstring a recurve bow, just reverse any of these processes.

When stringing the bow, there are a few important things to remember. First, always

make sure that the string is seated properly in the grooves of the upper and lower limb

before releasing pressure. Also, always remember that the archers’ safety is the most

important.

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